"Wave Check" is a fully analog photo series that pays tribute to the Durag, an iconic Afro-American accessory commonly used for hair protection and maintaining a fresh haircut. It is a headwear item with deep cultural significance within the Black American community.This piece of fabric has its origins in slavery and the impoverished Afro-American neighborhoods, where it was used as a head wrap to protect black slaves's hair from the sun and dirt. However, it also served to conceal the hair of black women at the time, considered "too conspicuous," marking their inferiority. The durag was, at that time, one of the symbols of oppression and stigmatization of the black community.
The roots of the Durag, as we know it today, trace back to the Harlem Renaissance. In the 1920s, this cultural movement contributed to the Durag's cultural significance, as it became a fashionable accessory among black artists and intellectuals, turning it into a real symbol.The image of the Durag will drastically change in the 1990s when it became an unavoidable item within Hip-Hop culture. It gained popularity internationally with the help of big-time rappers. However, these rappers were often associated with "gangsta rap," making the Durag a controversial subject in many institutions and linked with negative stereotypes and criminalization in the US. Many schools banned it, claiming the Durag is associated with gang culture. In 2001, the NFL decided to forbid players from wearing Durags. Not long after, the NBA followed, claiming it is a "safety hazard." Nevertheless, this decision can be seen as a racist one because it predominantly affected black players who wore the Durag. This criminalization of Durags highlights the racial biases and socio-cultural implications of blackness. Overall, there was a clear intent to limit the influence of the Durag during that time.
Despite the difficulties and ups and downs of the hype around the Durag, it has held on through the years. Today, it is a widely common fashion item and a true symbol of pride, worn as a means of expressing identity and personal style. For many Durag fans, the general use is to compress their head to obtain the famous wavy hairstyle. The title of the series, « Wave Check », is an expression used when a male takes off his durag to reveal his fresh wavy haircut in front of an audience.
As a hip-hop enthusiast, I grew up on the 90s iconography from the likes of Hype Williams, Chi Modu, and Jonathan Mannion, where Doo-rags were very present. I always found that accessory fascinating without knowing its history and meaning, yet it was part of the imagery I grew up with.The series revisits the Durag by extending the accessory with a long and floating piece, using unusual fabric. The extension of that Durag, floating in the wind, interacts with the model and emphasizes the Durag as a luxurious fabric rather than a gangster bandana. To underscore the timelessness of the durag, stylist Mathilde Fouquet added vintage Chanel jewelry, Courrège and Lanvin pants from the 70s.
